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Removing and then reattaching battery cables, and the order in which you do that, is important. You can get the shock of your life if you do it incorrectly.

Recently, I was spending time with friends at their home, when one of them decided it was time to replace the battery in their car. They hadn’t invited me to their home to help with that project, but it just happened that one of them was taking care of this project while I was there.

The new battery had been purchased, and was sitting on the work bench in the garage. We three were out there with the garage door open because the sun was shining and it was a warm spring day.

But then one of them grabbed a wrench and started loosening the red HOT wire off the battery. I couldn’t help myself, I said “no”. Ok, I shouted “NO!”

When they both calmed down and asked why not the red (hot) cable first, I explained that, even with the key off inside the car, there can be (often are) other devices drawing power from the battery. So if you remove the hot/red cable first, it can cause sparks galore! and it can cause a short that can cause a fire (it’s rare, but it can), and it can give YOU a serious shock if you are touching metal.

Always, always remove the negative/black cable first, and then make sure the metal clamp end of it is not touching any metal in the engine compartment. (You might need to use a flat-blade screwdriver to “open” the clamp connection so that it can be lifted off of the battery post.)

And THEN remove the positive/red cable … and make sure it too is secure so that it is not touching metal. There are a few cars and trucks that have a second battery and/or small secondary power source. Make sure neither the negative cable nor the positive cable is touching metal, even after you’ve removed both of them from the battery, even with the ignition key “off”.

When reinstalling the cables after the new battery is in place … connect the postive/red battery cable first (making sure, again, that the negative cable clamp is not touching anything metal). Then tighten the nut/bolt on the positive clamp. Then connect the negative cable. You might get a small spark when the negative cable first touches the negative battery post on the battery (those small power drains that are always “on” in some vehicles), but it won’t be enough to hurt you. Put that negative cable on somewhat aggressively tho also gently, then you’ll be safe to put a wrench to the negative clamp and tighten it down without a care in the world. You might want to lightly tap down on each cable clamp after you put it on the battery post, just to make sure the cable clamp is down and tight. Don’t hammer it hard, just tap down on it to seat it. Then tighten the bolt/s.

Here is a video that shows, very simply, and perfectly, how to remove and reinstall battery cables.

There are videos online that tell you the exact opposite of this … trust me, I’m a diesel and gas truck (and car and boat) mechanic of many years, with years of education and years of experience.

If you’re nervous, or just very cautious, there’s no harm in asking for professional help and having a trusted local shop change out the battery for you.

But now. Jumper cables. How do you hook those up?

When getting a jump from another vehicle … or giving a jump to another vehicle … here’s how you do it.

Both vehicles … the ignition is OFF and the ignition keys are REMOVED from the vehicles. The jumper cables are lying on the ground between the two vehicles.

Connect the positive/red jumper cable to the “dead” battery first. Then the other end of that positive/red cable gets connected to the “live” battery in the vehicle that has a good battery (but don’t start that engine yet). Always make sure that neither end of the negative/black cable is touching any metal on either vehicle. [If it’s raining, have one person hold one end of the negative cable in the air (not on the wet ground), and have a second person hold the other end of the negative cable in the air as well (not on the wet ground).]

Once the positive cable is connected to the positive posts of both vehicles, then connect the negative cable … first to the “live” good battery. Then connect the other end of the black/negative cable to the “dead” battery. Lots of videos will tell you to attach that last cable connection NOT to the battery but to the engine block. Frankly, I’ve never had a problem connecting that last black/negative connection directly to the battery that’s dead, the one that needs a jump.

The concern is that there could be a spark with that last connection. But, if that battery really is dead, AND the key is off in that vehicle, then there will be no spark. Me? I connect that last cable right to the battery so there is no question/concern about reduced amperage from increased resistance if the charge has to travel through the engine block and then to the battery. I’ve jump started hundreds of vehicles and had no problems.

Nevertheless, if you are concerned, then certainly take the precaution and connect that last negative jumper cable to a bolt on top of the engine inside the vehicle that needs the jump, but make sure that jumper cable is no where near anything else that moves once the engine starts (like the fan blades or the belts on the engine).

And then, start the vehicle with the good battery, let it run a minute or two, and rev the engine up to 2,000 rpm or so, with the brakes on! Truly, let it run awhile. Someone needs to be sitting inside that vehicle with its engine running, with the brakes on good and tight in that vehicle (park brake and foot brake and the gear shift in park). Then have someone get in the other vehicle, and start that engine.

If the battery that needed a jump is truly dead, worn out, then it won’t accept the charge, even though the engine will start. [If the engine doesn’t start, you may have a bad starter motor or connection.] So, once that vehicle has started, DON’T SHUT THE ENGINE OFF! Disconnect the jumper cables (negative first from both batteries, then positive). Then drive the vehicle with the dead battery to a location where you can buy and install a brand new battery. Don’t go home, just go to the battery store.

Or, you can drive home so at least you have food and a bathroom, etc. 🙂 And then you can deal with the dead battery from there. Keep in mind though, that the problem could be a failed alternator in that car with the dead battery, such that the alternator is not charging the battery when the engine is running. The battery might be perfectly ok. Best to take the car to an auto mechanic so the electrical system can be checked and repaired.

Here’s an excellent, quick video about attaching jumper cables.

Lots of videos will tell you to pull one vehicle directly up to the front of the other vehicle, within inches of the other vehicle. I don’t do that. I want the vehicles off-set so that if someone screws up and the brakes aren’t on, then I don’t get squashed between the two vehicles. I always ask people to bring the “good” vehicle up just off-set from the “bad” vehicle such that if one of them did jump into gear and move forward, it would hit the other car and not keep moving, but also so there’s room between the two so that I can work on each engine compartment without getting squashed. No squashing allowed. 🙂

And so then … after you’ve “jumped” the dead battery and that engine is running, and after you’ve disconnected the jumper cables (negative cables first), if you want to run the engine in the vehicle that had the dead battery so it charges up, but you also want to park that car to do that, and you don’t want to drive it around and around and around, keep in mind that it is illegal in most states in the USA to get out of your car when the engine is running. There must be a licensed driver sitting in the driver’s seat at all times if the engine is running even if the park brake is on and the gear shift is in park. Just a word to the wise. 🙂

I replace the battery in my truck every 5 years. I replace the batteries in my trailer every 5 years too. I’ve done that with every car and trailer and boat I’ve owned. It’s just not worth another year or two of use to risk dead batteries. If you want to have your vehicle’s battery/s tested, take the vehicle to a reputable shop and ask that the battery/s be “load tested”. They’ll know what you mean and think you are smart.

Ok, that’s your mechanic lesson for the day. 🙂

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And now I’d like to share something with you that you might enjoy more than all of that detailed information about cranky (or not cranky) batteries and their cables. 🙂 Here is art work that I thoroughly enjoy … created by Sue Coccia, from Edmonds, WA. Her website, Earth Art International, shows even more of her art. You can see every image she has created by going to that website, then go to “Animal Spirits Catalog”, then click on the link “HERE” on that page. Or go to the “Products” page to see everything she has for sale, especially “Signed Prints”. I hope you like these. 🙂 [click on the images to enlarge them]